October 22nd 2008 marked my 60th lap around the sun. A big number that calls for reflection, which I do best in the ocean. On my way down the dirt path to the water, I thought of the best things in life: the birth of my first and only child, my second marriage, my love affair with surfing that started in February of 1961 and my conversion to Christianity in 1968. While births and marriages often conjure up similar memories for most everyone, surfing and Christianity, when given joint custody, probably do not.

I remember hearing that celebrity Paris Hilton was reading her Bible and praying while in jail. The next thing I heard was that she had been released and had resumed her party lifestyle. I hate to admit it, but I operate the same way—get into trouble, call on God, make bail, and go back to what I was doing. I have never met Paris Hilton, but if I did, I would ask her to pray with me. She needs it as much as I do, as much as we do.

Ever since childhood Jay Adams has been addicted to the pull of gravity. Being crossbred by the lowriders, beatniks and surfers in Venice California, Jay began surfing so long ago that he can’t recall the first time. Skateboarding quickly followed and he soon became one of the leaders of the prestigious Z-boys.